Food: lamb à la Boulangère with Caper Sauce

In many ways the French and the English are one people divided by the channel. Saying as much will not earn me friends on either side of course but post 1066 their histories have been entwined enough that for all the differences we see, an alien might mistake them for being the same. I am…

Food: Black Pudding

So, I have fulfilled a long-time goal. I first watched River Cottage in the 90’s back when there were 3 or 4 TV channels and the modern generation of celebrity cookery was just starting to pick up steam in the wake of Keith Floyd’s hangover. My late aunty Ann alerted me to Hugh Fearnly Whittingstal….

Food: El Estofado – Spanish Stew

As I make my own idiosyncratic chorizo and Picante Pimentón de la Vera each Autumn and grow most of my own vegetables, Spanish inspired stews bursting with spicy smoky flavours are a common dish around here. After frying chorizo, Pimentón, onions and garlic, plucked Cavello Nero and chard get slow cooked with dried beans from…

Travel: ROAST – London Day 4

“There are thin lines of creamy fat running through the maroon flesh like a road map; a thicker layer wrapped around the outside and here and there oval islands of it, the colour of creme fraiche, set among the meat. This fat is crisp to the touch and plentiful; it is what will baste the…